As a kid, I had a recurring dream about an ice-capped mountain behind a sparkling, aqua-blue swimming pool. It’s a vision I’ve never forgotten, but had no idea where it might have been — perhaps Austria, for starters.
There may have been no better place to begin that search than in the heart of Vienna. Hotel Nestroy is a handy four-star retreat, ideal for exploring the beautiful and sophisticated city that is home to Mozart, Beethoven and Sigmund Freud, and resplendent with a wealth of Hapsburg architecture and imperial palaces.
All that — and the search for my dream location — would have to wait as the itinerary called for playing five courses in four days.
The first stop was Colony Golf Club just 6.2 miles south of Vienna and one of Austria’s finest. The club’s West course is considered the better of two 18-hole layouts and it proved to be testing enough with lengthy holes twisting through a tight, tree-lined terrain.
Next was Fontana Golf and Country Club, considered to be another top-tier course. On the edge of the spa town of Baden and again only a short drive south of Vienna, the course opened in 1996. The club’s owner, Austrian-Canadian Frank Stronach, made billions with the largest automotive parts plant in Canada and is clearly passionate about his Austrian roots. A huge lake divides a palatial, Florida-style clubhouse from Stronach’s equally impressive mansion. The experience on and off the golf course is exceptional.
There is more to Austria than Vienna, as evidenced by Styria, which is about a 150-minute drive south and is a mountainous region renowned for its wine, spas and castles. One of those 1,000-year-old castles has been transformed into the Hotel Schloss Pichlarn, a five-star destination with the finest local fayre and wine, and an Elysian spa. Tall mountains overlooked a steaming outdoor pool.
Was this the Austria of my dreams? Also, it was surrounded by a gorgeous 18-hole golf course.
Next up was Schladming-Dachstein Golf Club, a Bernhard Langer design that has been referred to as the Pebble Beach of the Alps. Such comparisons are not necessary as Schladming is in a league of its own.
The course does have some American elements in the shape of lots of water that comes into play. Langer designed this at the height of his playing career and he employed the same meticulousness that he applied to his own golf game. There are six par-3 holes and these are the most memorable of the highly playable course.
A trip to Austria should also include a stop in Salzburg. Surrounded by the Alps and on the border of Bavaria, Salzburg is another cultural highlight that is worthy of a return trip. Staying at Hotel Pitter near the center of town, a fine evening dinner can be had at Sky Restaurant, which has wonderful views of the city and features a robust and tasty Rowanberry Schnapps.
While rain prevented play on Altentann Golf Club, it would not deter a round at Adamstal Golf Club, which is considered the No. 1 course in Austria. Nestled in the Alpine foothills, it is said to be one of the most spectacular golf courses in Europe and it hosts the European Challenge Tour’s Euram Bank Open.
The design follows the lay of the land, which is twisting and dotted with ravines. The course even includes a “settle-the-bet” par-3 19th hole that is set at the foot of the valley.
The trip circuited back to Vienna for a farewell dinner at Mayer Restaurant Pfarrplatz, the city’s oldest restaurant and just a short walk from where Ludwig van Beethoven once lived.
Austrian cuisine typically involves sled loads of schnitzel and avalanches of sweet pastries. Pfarrplatz is the epitome of local food and wine. These traditional wine taverns are called heurigers and specialize in regional dishes and wine, along with live heuriger music.
It was an ideal way to cap off a whirlwind visit, despite the fact I never found the setting for my recurring childhood dream.