If there’s one thing golfers do extremely well, then it is enjoying inconsequential conversations in clubhouse bars about which holes or courses are the best. The discussions won’t change the world at all, but these casual debates are usually extremely satisfying.
Choosing the better course between a historic, typically-private, well-groomed, nine-time U.S. Open venue and an unkempt $15 muni designed by someone in the civic parks department is an objective decision. There might always be a lone voice who pleads the case of the city-owned facility, but it’s not really up for serious discussion. When you’re trying to decide between courses that appear in a top-100 ranking, however, choices can become extremely subjective.
Listing the 18-hole courses at Oregon’s Bandon Dunes Golf Resort in order of preference is a favorite pastime among those fortunate enough to have played all five. People have their favorites and there’s often no clear winner. And it’s the same with Ireland’s four coastlines.
Let’s forget about the island’s southern edge for now because, besides amazingly-picturesque Old Head, Alister Mackenzie-designed Cork Golf Club, and three-time Irish Open venue Fota Island, there’s not much to talk about — and certainly no championship-worthy links. Picking the best from the rest of the country, though, is a wonderful argument to have as long as all participants realize there probably isn’t a conclusive winner.
Eric Hart, an American who has played all of Ireland’s 50 top-rated courses, is an unequivocal fan of the West Coast. A veteran of several trips to the Emerald Isle, Hart employs a points system to rate the various courses, and the majority of those on the left coast beat their corresponding number on the right.
“For me,” he says, “there’s zero question about which coast has the better golf.”
There will be plenty who agree wholeheartedly. Kevin Markham, a respected golf writer and photographer from Ireland says the West is the preferred destination among American visitors with an emphasis on the southwest links.
“Ballybunion and Lahinch are the big draws,” he notes, “along with Waterville and Tralee.”
Markham adds, however, the West should really be divided into the southwest and northwest and that, given the opportunity to play for five or six straight days, he’d go to the northwest every time.
“Carne and Enniscrone are my two favorite courses,” he says, “and County Sligo is close behind with Strandhill adding some very different flavor.”
While East versus West is a fun discussion, it omits what for some is actually Ireland’s best coast of all — the North. Counting anything on the map above Donegal in the west and Belfast in the east as North, there is a group of clubs comprising Royal Portrush, which hosts its third Open Championship in 2025, 2018 Irish Open venue Ballyliffin, 2017 Irish Open venue Portstewart, Ballycastle, Castlerock, Portsalon, Rosapenna, Narin and Portnoo, North West, and the delightful Dunfanaghy. A number of them have multiple quality courses too which, obviously, adds to their respective appeal.
Ballyliffin, for instance, has two superb links in the Glashedy and Old Course while Rosapenna has the Sandy Hills and Old Tom Morris courses — as well as St Patrick’s, which opened just three years ago but has already climbed into the world’s top 50. The Tom Doak design was built on a 370-acre property that once accommodated two courses and traverses an incredible dunescape overlooking Sheephaven Bay.
Shane Derby, host of the “Firm and Fast Golf Podcast,” is smitten with the North coast, but says his admiration may involve some recency bias after a visit to Royal Portrush’s formidable Dunluce Course. He admits his choice may be different the next time he’s asked.
“The North has so much good golf,” he says, “but, to be honest with you, the right answer is probably the East. For me anyway. Its top three courses — Portmarnock, Royal County Down and County Louth (commonly known as Baltray) — are truly world-class, while its weaker layouts (The European, Royal Dublin, The Island, Laytown and Bettystown, Jameson Links, Ardglass, Arklow, and Rosslare on the southeastern tip of the country, plus the always entertaining Corballis, Seapoint and St Anne’s) are fantastic, too.”
For the time being, here are Top 10 rankings for the East, West and North coasts (listed in alphabetical order) — at least for now.
TOP 10 [East]
Ardglass
Arklow
Baltray
Laytown and Bettystown
Portmarnock
Royal Dublin
Royal County Down
Rosslare
The European
The Island
TOP 10 [North]
Ballycastle
Ballyliffin
Castlerock
Dunfanaghy
Narin & Portnoo
North West
Portstewart
Portsalon
Rosapenna
Royal Portrush
TOP 10 [West]
Ballybunion
Carne
Ceann Sibeal
Co. Sligo
Dooks
Doonbeg
Enniscrone
Lahinch
Tralee
Waterville